My
wife Zosia and I have just spent nearly two weeks travelling over 1200 miles
around Greece.
We set out to have an exhilarating, spiritual, theological and philosophical
adventure - following in St. Paul's theological footsteps in some places
(Corinth, Thessaloniki, Philippi, Veria, Kavala), following in Greece's rich
historical and cultural footsteps in other places (Meteora, Drama, Pella, Mount
Olympus, Preveza), and fulfilling both criteria in our visit to Athens.
We
invited God in at every step to feed into our journey, fill us with more of
Himself, and enhance our wisdom with every passing mile. He most certainly
obliged - in fact, it's highly unlikely that one can embark on such a spiritual
adventure with hunger, good intentions and an open heart, and not come away
fed, blessed and fulfilled. That which we give to God in dedication, He gives
back to us to an immeasurably greater degree.
Below
is a reflection of some of the things I captured along the way, in this quest
for nourishment on our pilgrimage. A small confession - as a writer, I did, of
course, take my note book and pen, enchanted by the prospect of jotting things
down profound wisdom like an ancient scribe - but the reality is, what was
captured below was done so on the voice recorder and camera on my mobile phone.
The ancient and the contemporary crossed paths, blended through the long
passing of time.
Adventures
of the kind we had, teach us about the new things contained in the adventure,
but they also teach us new things about the life we've temporarily left behind
- rather like how eating another nation's cuisine heightens our appreciation
for our own national cuisine at the same time, or how reading literature
teaches us important things about reading philosophy too (and vice-versa). Rudyard
Kipling once said “What do they know of
England, who only England know?”, and what he meant was, not only do you
not know much of other countries if you only know England - you don't know so
much of England either without knowing other countries with which to make
comparisons. Travelling helps us understand the destinations better, but it
also helps us understand our homeland better - and that can be extended into
our psychological, philosophical and spiritual endowments too.
In
some ways, the Greeks are so much more laid back about rules - it's a more
liberating place than Britain, and hasn't yet been infected by the many
cultural viruses that have plagued the UK. But it's less liberating in some
senses too; for example, it has a very religious attitude to church buildings -
you can't walk in to a church without the right coverings, especially if you're
female. Greek orthodoxy and some of the Catholic tradition is mired in
religiosity, and it heightened my appreciation for freer expressions of the
faith found in countries like ours, where dogma has not ossified the faith in
as many places.
In
a monastery in Meteora, I read a sign that proudly stated that every year on
Holy Saturday, for two millennia, the Holy Light is miraculously lit by lightning
inside the Holy Sepulchre, and only of course in the presence of the Greek
orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem, to symbolise the resurrection of Christ. I do
not believe a word of it. I think God neither endorses this nor deigns Himself
to perform miracles during conditions under which such poorly motivated
mechanical proclamations are at play. It reeks of false attestations made because
the spiritual well of grace theology has dried up. Britain
may not be half as religious as Greece,
but for now the Christianity it does have seems for the most part to be suffused
with grace as the pivot around which the power of the gospel revolves.
Walking around
some places in Greece,
taking pictures with modern mobile technology that the ancients couldn't
possibly have conceived, gave me a sense that there are ways in which not much
had changed in cultural pockets of Greece for hundreds of years. We
are tendentious creatures; we often prefer to stick to the comfort zones. But
it ought to be mentioned – even the great dramatists like Herodotus and
Sophocles and Euripides and Aeschylus all at first seem ponderous to the boy
who has only read Roald Dahl and Hans Christian Anderson, and even, perhaps, Oscar
Wilde. And the comparison works at an extra level of significance too, because
the Greek tragedies, set in a backdrop of cultural, political
and military power, and colonialism, and cultural identity bring forth their
slowness in being only a substitute for something better (as shown by the
cultural worshipping of Dionysus – who had the exotic womanliness akin to the
motherliness of bonding sacrificial love). In dramatisations of the tragedies
on stage, the actors wore masks, and the masks transformed the actors in a
similar way to how the masks of works transform our true identities as creatures
liberated under grace.
There is a reason why Christ talked of bringing not peace
but a sword, and why He said conflicts were inevitable, and why He reiterated
that He has come to divide families. I do not think it is simply because He
knew that many would reject His gospel of grace, or that we would be forever
falling out over how best to go about our business. I think it is because He knew
that although life is lived forwards, it is only reviewed backwards with
retrospect - and it is with such retrospection we are able to see that God
never wanted homogeneity. Our very uniqueness in mental composition and in
cultural influence is precisely what makes the reaching of our full potential
so full of wonder, as we journey through the stages of growth.
Herodotus and
Sophocles and Euripides and Aeschylus only seem ponderous to the populist, not
because easy fixes on Oscar Wilde are a bad thing (in many ways one could make
a decent case that Oscar Wilde is better than all four), but because at our
worst we can be so busy with our own masks on that we remain inattentive to
where those tragedies lead us to when we are incarcerated in a cultural stasis,
worshipping gods and images that were no more exalted than their best thinkers,
and in many cases, worse.
I captured this photo as
we were driving through Macedonia,
because it brought to mind a line from C.S Lewis from his Surprised By Joy: "To prefer my own happiness to my
neighbour's was like thinking that the nearest telegraph post was really
the largest."
For sheer
natural gravitas, I think Mount
Olympus was the most
stunning place we visited - so named because, being the tallest mountain, it's
the place where the Greeks thought the 12 Olympian gods lived. Made up gods
don't live anywhere, of course, whereas the one true God lives everywhere
(Psalm 139: 7-12) - and that is the power and spirit we took to the mountain. As we
made our way up to the highest points accessible by car, I reflected on my past
writing about how our ideas about multiple gods evolved into ideas about one
God. The multiple gods the Greeks (and Romans, Scandinavians, etc) created over
time represented the best and worst of our ideas about higher order values, and
we began to refine them as we subjected them to a natural selection kind of
filter, which inevitably led
to the dying out of these invented gods.
As well as
the rise of Christianity, the principal thing, I think, is that the gods of the
Greeks were so obviously gods made in man’s image. Greek gods were in every way
simulations of what the imagination can sense about the self if we are left to
our own devices. Like us, they were on the most human of levels – their gods
were often uncharitable, insensitive, base, incorrigibly proud, far too
animalistic to be considered Divine, and nowhere near beautiful or numinous or
ineffable enough to be worthy of our awe and worship. This gives
them poor evolvability, because when subjected to selection pressure, humans
will usually outgrow their deference to made up creatures and recognise these
qualities in other humans instead. Many thousands of other gods and religions (although
sadly, not all) went the same way for the same kind of reasons – the concepts
associated with the ideas lost out to competing ideas, be they religious or
non-religious.
The
most rewarding part of Olympus was the secret
waterfall we discovered. It was also the hardest place to reach, requiring a
concerted effort on foot to get there. This, of course, is true of nearly all
of the most rewarding pursuits in life - the things that are most worth
discovering are the things that take the most effort to acquire.
As we visited
the ancient ruins of Corinth and Philippi, and
sensed St. Paul's
influence there, I also felt myself moved with the regard for the struggles the
early Christians endured for our sake in influencing the dissemination of the
word. It is good to reflect on such matters, and clothe ourselves in humility
and gratitude as we do so. We can also celebrate the fact that although the
church throughout its early years endured severe persecution at the hands of
both the Jews and the Romans, it flourished and grew rapidly. When we look at
the Christians persecuted after the resurrection; under such conditions there
were few earthly benefits for them for their unfeigned allegiance to Christ,
only the cause of grace that they believed in. They were locked up, beaten and
tortured, but still did not renounce their faith in Jesus as God, because they
were stalwarts – real warriors for Christ and people who deserve our respect,
our admiration, and our remembrance. They believed in the profound message of
grace that would put right the wrongs of Roman oppression (a notion which quite
a few Romans actually embraced).
Greece is steeped in Roman influence, of course, especially in
terms of the influence Rome
had on Christendom. If you are familiar with Edward Gibbon's The History of the Decline and Fall of the
Roman Empire, you can see parallels between the historical decline and the
socio-cultural declension of the grace theology that should bootstrap the
faith. Gibbon’s thesis is that the Roman Empire
succumbed to external and internal sanguinary conflicts (including the
degeneracy of the Roman army and the Praetorian guards) and its own gradual diminution
because of loss of civic virtue among its citizens. The fall of the Empire,
just like the fall of humankind, is not God’s primary dispensation – fallenness
seems to be part of nature’s quintessence, as the true riches of God’s plans are
played out in the poorness of a broken world. It seems to take a world of
fallenness to see a world full of grace, which is what St. Paul writes about so comprehensively in
his epistle to the Romans.
The other work
that strikes a symbolic chord here is also Roman; it is Dante’s brilliant
exposition of his own journey in Divine
Comedy, journeying through Hell, Purgatory, and Heaven towards our Triune
God. Just as in the Psalms of lament (such as Psalm 12 where the Psalmist is
bemoaning ungodliness, or Psalm 74 where the Psalmist is bemoaning a malcontent
towards God Himself), God remains our the last refuge, because every part of
our love and our virtue steers us towards Him – His feet and arms carry where
ours are in despair, and dejection cannot even lift us off of our knees. And if
He will lead us back into a standing position, fortified and consolidated in
our readiness to progress, then He will put us right back on course with
beatific visions, just as Christ did. The real secret wisdom in Dante choosing Beatrice
(Beatific) to guide him through Heaven seems to me to be this; in being his
ideal woman she must have most closely resembled the bride that he wanted to
be. As a bride of Christ, she was the embodiment of the bride that he wanted to
capture in himself (Revelation 18:23).
If Dante’s
inferno was about our seeing sin for what it really is, then heaven must be our
seeing what supreme grace really is. The in between “Mountain of Purgatory” is
a brilliant allegorical depiction of the psychology of getting to know the
first hints of grace theology by confronting the darkest that is in us. If the
freely given cross of Christ is the answer to nature’s need of love and grace,
and its encouragement to play a part in our own administering of the best love and
grace we can, then our being brides of Christ is the security that underwrites
that mission. In the words of Dante, the desires and the will are…
Being turned like a wheel, all at one
speed,
By the Love which moves the sun and the
other stars.
At the end of
Divine Comedy, when Dante meets St. Peter and St. John, we get to understand something so
inherently absent in Greek orthodoxy; we cannot easily express our deepest
intuitions about grace because we are only sampling its true fullness. Legalism
and stuffy religiosity is myopic to the fact that grace is the most liberating
thing of all (John 8:31-32 - "the truth will set you free") - and
consequently, the real power of grace can only be fully understood in relation
to a perfect God who revealed grace in the mystery of Christ's simultaneous divinity
and humanity – only by trying to grasp that with the help of the Holy Spirit
can we become aligned with God's supreme grace.
This is a
significant part of the influence driving my desire for following in Paul's
footsteps in Greece and Rome (I aspire to go to Ephesus too in the future). Where Dante seems
to find the greater refuge in meeting St. Peter and St.
John, my own gravitation was always more forcefully pulled towards St. Paul – for I think he
is the greatest Christian explicator who has ever lived. His epistles take the
Divine level of Jesus (through St. Paul’s own
encounter with the Holy Spirit), and the human level of Jesus (through St. Paul’s own humility,
weakness and suffering) to convey the most advanced and enlightened grace
theology ever written.
Contained
within St. Paul’s epistles, we find not just the greatest explicator of grace
that we have ever seen, we find a mind hugely tormented and assailed by the
world outside of him – a mind of devotion that was able to disconnect him from
the faults and weaknesses of others in order that he could counsel them best
and serve their needs by using his own strength in Christ as a bridge to grace.
One of the best examples of this is his approach in Areopagus - a place that we
had the pleasure of visiting - where Greek philosophy had a huge hold on the
people there – a place of strong intellectual vigour and a legacy of
philosophical wisdom. St. Paul
begins by bringing together the virtues of mankind by praising them for being
worshipfully inclined, but he then proffers the suggestion that what draws a
man towards worship must be greater than anything humans can construct:
"Now what you worship as something
unknown I am going to proclaim to you. The God who made the world and
everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples
built by hands."
Although
human virtue is the first step of a good conceptual footing – its goodness is
relative to the God behind this grace theology – and the mind of St. Paul probably understood
that better than anyone. His greatest thinking led him to see that no earthly
richness could compare to knowing Christ, as he rightly considered everything
else a loss when compared with knowing Christ. He powerfully declared that that
neither earth nor life, nor angels nor rulers, nor things present nor things to
come, nor powers, nor height nor depth, nor anything else in all creation, will
be able to separate us from the love of God in Christ Jesus our Lord – and this
is the ultimate grace theology – the best the world has ever known.
Given
the foregoing, standing on Areopagus hill was one of my personal highlights on
the trip.
I
imagined Paul preaching there to the masses steeped in Greek philosophy - and
having read the works of Aristotle and Plato in the past - I can well imagine
their reaction was not exactly very positive. Nevertheless, St. Paul was at
pains to point out that grace extends to everyone – there are no philosophical hoops
to jump through because recognition of grace is recognition of Christ’s expression,
both human and Divine - and that is what Divine inclusion is. Perhaps at a
subliminal level the Pagan (and the atheist in general) has to 'hope' in the
absence of faith, and the Christian 'trusts' in the absence of unbelieving
'hope'. Maybe that's why Zeus left "hope" at the bottom of Pandora's
Box - seeing it as shaving off trust and leaving hope that one's future is in
one's control and not the gods. St.
Paul was delighted to put his life in Christ’s
control, and that is where we know true blessedness will be achieved.
It
also serves a good reminder that theology is a formal subject to us moderns,
but it wasn't so much to Paul - it was a mission, a state of necessary being,
in order for the gospel to be propagated - just like, to the physicist,
componential study of light reveals transportations of energy through
electromagnetic radiation; but to the 1st century man lost in the forest at
night, the flame on his candle is seen only as the source of the way out.
Areopagus hill
has another important place in my heart, as it was also the influence of Areopagitica, the great work by John
Milton - and possibly the best book
ever on free speech and freedom of expression. Milton lays down the edict about the
necessity of having a free press, the liberty to not be silenced or censored,
and the wisdom that people who try to impede the freedom of expression in
others harm themselves too, because they rob themselves of the ability to hear
and think.
By the time we had visited
Athens, I
acquired another strong sense of how God was speaking to us on this pilgrimage.
We felt so close to Him throughout the adventure, and we sensed a profound
level of favour in everything we did - in all the little details of our
journey, from public transport arriving just when we needed it to be, to
favourable weather, to room upgrades, to all the right people being there just
when we needed them. I believe God wanted to remind us how much favour there is
in drawing near to Him. Favour of this kind doesn't mean everything will always
go exactly as we think we want it to go, but it does mean that everything will
always go exactly as we need it to go
in order for God to ultimately bless us and teach us what we need to learn.
I'm sure that this pilgrimage
has opened doors for God to speak to us in new ways, and a short piece like
this is quite inadequate to the task of capturing the full essence of what God
has said to us, and plans to do further within us. For quite often, we find
that the most powerful ways that God connects with us are beyond the scope of
our own articulation. And we all know too that the surest way to undermine
something satisfying is to try to break it down into constituent analyses.
Introspection aimed at joy and pleasure only leaves us with the by-product, not
the thing in itself - like the ripples in the river after the current hits the
rock.
We planned and researched
this trip ourselves, and as such, we spanned the entire country with a sense of
freedom and liberation, entirely open to what God wanted to do in us and
through us on this pilgrimage. I sense that on top of what I've conveyed above,
further seeds have been planted that will bear more fruit in the future. For
anyone inclined to embark on a similar journey of this kind, I cannot recommend
it enough. Apart from maybe a trip to the Holy Land of Israel, a spiritual
pilgrimage in Greece in the
footsteps of St. Paul
is perhaps the most rewarding excursion a Christian can make.